I <3 Yohji Yamamoto
"I don’t bother you - don’t bother me." Thoughts, quotes, clothes, links.
This one is my final post of 2024 (I think), and I’ve been struggling to decide whether to write about one of my all-time favorite designers or my big (and small) realizations of the year. I picked the designer. Because, well, the realizations? Those can live in my notebook, scribbled by me, for me. Who cares!
So, Yohji Yamamoto.
Out of all the designers I’ve mentioned here before, Yamamoto is the one I own the most from. Every piece is secondhand, all in like-new condition, and none of it cost me more than €100. Off the top of my head, there’s at least 15 things: wool long sleeves, another long sleeve, a scarf, gloves, a dress, tank tops, shirts… and the chef’s vest (it’s somewhere here).
Here’s how I’m structuring this post:
The book that inspired me to write this.
Why I love Yohji Yamamoto.
Some quotes by him, lovingly saved in my notes app.
Links to learn more.
Resale finds for you.
The book that inspired me to write this
Remember that special gift I mentioned last week? Yohji Yamamoto: An Exhibition Triptych. The book was published by MoMu (Mode Museum Provincie Antwerpen) to accompany a trio of exhibitions dedicated to Yohji Yamamoto (Florence, Paris, Antwerp, 2005–2006). It creates a conversation between Yohji’s designs and the artworks on display, while offering insights into his atelier and the influence of great French couturiers on his craft. Richly illustrated and quite educational (to me), it’s both a beautifully designed object and a thoughtful exploration of Yohji’s creative process. I’d love to show you every picture in there but that’s for when you come over. In the meantime, here’s four:
Why I love Yohji Yamamoto
To me, Yohji Yamamoto is fashion’s poet laureate. His clothes whisper rather than shout, and that feels special. There’s an intellectual rigor to his work that never tips into pretension — it’s like he can create something that feels like a meditation on impermanence while somehow being the thing I want to wear for any occasion: party, supermarket, birthday, a random Tuesday at home. His tailoring is sharp, precise — surgical, even — but there’s still an emotion to it, it’s like he makes a single seam feel philosophical.
I learned from the aforementioned book that Yamamoto does have this image of a secretive and discreet character, one who talks little but always to the point, and one who has this concentration of positive values and energies, “touched by Zen and marked by the grace of Buddhism.” But in reality, it’s all much more complex than that. I also learned that he is quite into excess: smoking heavily, drinking heavily, gambling heavily. Excess is a way of life, it’s a remedy for routine and boredom. I’m not sure how this all goes together with Zen and Buddhism, but at least there’s no illusion — Yamamoto seems to be very aware of these contradictions. I like that. It all feels honest to me.I think Yohji Yamamoto understands the body in a way that few others do. He knows the body is fragile, but also powerful. He dresses you like you’re preparing for a battle and a dance at the same time. Speaking of dance, I do like to wear some of my long sleeves to my stretching classes because I think of Pina Bausch… wearing his clothes.
And then there’s the romance of it all. Black, endless, alluring. I don’t know if you know, but I wear black a lot. A lot! I remember he once said, “Black is modest and arrogant at the same time. Black is lazy and easy — but mysterious. But above all, black says this: ‘I don’t bother you — don’t bother me.’” Honestly, I think no one else could make me feel like that about black. No one’s writing poetry like that about beige. Are they??
This is why I love Yohji Yamamoto.
Quotes from my notes (lovingly collected from all over the place)
“I make clothing like armor. My clothing protects you from unwelcome eyes.”
"For making a dress you have to use your fingers, your hands. It’s very important because your hands are culture. Your soul comes out at the tips of your fingers."
“Start copying what you love. Copy copy copy copy. At the end of the copy you will find yourself.”
"My muse is non-existent. It’s in my imagination. [...] Your imagination is your own world. It’s very dangerous to lose the capacity to imagine."
“With my eyes turned to the past, I walk backwards into the future.”
“My whole life is made up of: "I'm sorry". I feel like I have to apologize to people, to things, to life itself. It's like, "I'm sorry to be here". I don't want to disturb anyone. But in my work, in the clothes I create, I'm actually telling people that I'm here. So, I guess I'm disturbing them, after all.”
"Black is modest and arrogant at the same time. Black is lazy and easy - but mysterious. But above all black says this: I don’t bother you - don’t bother me." (Again! Because this one has stayed with me the longest.)
Links to learn more
Notebook on Cities and Clothes. A documentary film about Yohji Yamamoto directed by Wim Wenders.
This Yohji Yamamoto interview from V&A is seven minutes of pure joy. I loved every word.
“My Dear Bomb”. A book by Yohji Yamamoto that I cannot wait to finally buy. Written in 2009 (as the company was struggling with bankruptcy), the book includes his philosophical thoughts, personal design principles, thoughts on the human body, relationships with women, poetic sensibilities, and more. See the scans here. Or buy it for me, please. I’m tired of buying everything for myself myself.
Speaking of, ARCHIVEPDF is great in general.
FW 1998 men’s collection presented exclusively by women (including Charlotte Rampling, Vivienne Westwood, and others). Did you know? How cool is this!?
A quick interview on Interview. I’ll read anything on Interview. I am obsessed.
Rachel Tashjian’s article on Yohji Yamamoto for The Washington Post.
Yohji Yamamoto + Rick Owens + Angelo Flaccavento for System Magazine. A gem!
An insta page (Yohji Yamamoto Archive) I like to visit.
NOWNESS - Yohji Yamamoto 1983–2016. East London vintage store Aro Archive pays homage to influential Japanese fashion designer Yohji Yamamoto in this short film.
Top 10 collections (1983-2003) selected by Olivier Saillard.
Ok, let’s go to resale now
This is more for reference, just as an example. I doubt anyone will be buying or shipping anything around Christmas.
Note to self: Next year, I need to decide whether to focus exclusively on EU links (since that’s my thing) or continue including the US, cause it seems to me that most of you are US-based??I’m gonna start with this apron cause I’m weirdly obsessed with aprons now.
I wonder what anyone should do with this vintage car brooch?
A very affordable black pencil skirt in small.
This wonderful top is mine and you can buy it from me.
SS1999 Runway Cartwheel Hat. Oh wow!
A very good wool jacket (located in Poland) that you can wear inside out.
Navy wool (unworn) scarf for like €50.
A brown sleeveless top that I think I want.
Leather flip-flops for €60 in France for someone size 41.5.
A €125 red cardigan in Belgium. I love the Yamamoto red.
Oversized sunglasses? Is it sunny where you are?
There’s something about this navy/brown bag that I like.
And a gorgeous (runway) 2009 wool coat in black. €465 in France.
And voilà!
Writing comme/neuf is the best thing I’ve done in 2024. It’s genuinely been making me so happy! Thank you very much for reading and supporting me. I cannot wait to tell you more next year.
Yours TRULY,
Anni
This written piece was a Highlight in the end-of-year-darkness and still glows!
I found my first Yamamoto piece at a resale boutique in Cleveland, Ohio, last week. Hadn’t looked at label before trying it on, though I knew the shape was perfect. After putting it on immediately thought What Is This. My delight when I saw the label. TY for these educational pieces about his work! Looking forward to learning more.